The Edge, Sheffield
The Edge Climbing Centre has recently made a number of modifications and
improvements to its walls. The most innovative of these is to new 'Pro-disc' system which
has been developed by The Edge in conjunction with PME Climbing Walls. This system is an
upgrade to the existing disc holds found in many modern climbing walls that allows you to
place bomber 'trad' gear into the discs. The idea allows you to turn any standard climbing
wall into a 'trad'
Although the system is aimed primarily at teaching novice climbers the art of placing trad
gear in a relatively safe environment, it has proved very popular with more experienced
wall users who have found the trad wall idea to be a pleasant and slightly more
stimulating experience to the standard bolt-clipping sessions one normally associates with
a night 'down the wall'!
However, this system has also introduced the concept of 'realism' into artificial trad
walls. All the previous efforts at building trad walls have been relatively fool-proof to
use, with gear placements providing a bomber runner regardless of the size of wire used,
therefore removing the need to be able to select the correct size gear for the placement.
The 'Pro-disc' systems
discs are individually hand-made, meaning that every placement is unique, and will only
accept a certain size nut or friend, meaning that you will have to be careful and
selective about the gear you use to protect yourself......just like you would on the crag!
As with the real thing, a well placed runner will provide you with bombproof security, but
you have to have the necessary skill in gear placement in order to achieve this!
At the moment only one section of the Edge's walls is equipped with the Pro-discs, meaning
that there are still another 180 routes from 3+ to 8c fully equipped with big shiny bolts
to play on for those who just want to train!
The Edge Bouldering Competitions
The Edge Bouldering League, which this year has been very generously
sponsored by Boreal and Mammut. The previous four rounds have been very well attended, and
the standard and quality of the 20 problems in each round have been second to
none. However, Round 5 will see the return of Percy's infamous "Feature of
Despair", as well as the routesetting skills of luminaries such as Rob Gawthorpe,
Ruth Jenkins, Andy Bowman and, of course, Percy! The winners of the League will be decided
at this event, and the lucky lady and gentleman will both walk away with £200 in cash!
To enter, just turn up at either 1630 or 1900 on the 18th of March, and pay us a fiver.
Then you may pit your wits against 20 of the most twisted problems we can think of, grades
from British 4b to 7a.
For more details on any of the above, 'phone Percy on 0114 275 8899
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